Planning and Preparation

A basic tile installation includes:

• A solid subfloor
• A layer of thinset mortar
• A tile substrate such as an uncoupling membrane or a cement backer board (backer board is necessary for bathrooms)
• A second layer of mortar
• Floor tile
• Grout
• Sealer

Estimate the square footage of tile you need. Add at least 10% to the estimate to account for such things as tile you need to cut and tile that may be damaged during installation.

Before you start, remember that using the correct trowel and mortar is critical to a successful tile project. Floor or wall, indoors or out, and tile type and size are all a factor. 

Getting the Room Ready for Installation

1. Have an Exit

Create an installation plan that allows you to exit the room without walking on the substrate or tiles while the mortar cures.

2. Plan for the Tile Height

Make sure appliances — such as dishwashers, slide-in ranges, refrigerators and trash compactors — have sufficient space to fit under the cabinets or countertop once you install the tiles underneath. Some appliances have adjustable feet, but if there isn't enough clearance, plan to raise the cabinets or countertops. Note that the tiles can also affect the toe kicks, reducing their height.

3 Clear the Floor

Getting the Subfloor Ready for the Tile Floor

1. Remove the exsiting flooring
2. Make sure the subfloor is sound
3. Check the subfloor thickness
4. Correct low and high spots
5. Clean the subfloor

Installing the Substrate

With the subfloor prepped, you're ready for the substrate. The two options are cement backerboard (to the right in the image) or a thinner, waterproof uncoupling membrane (to the left), which is ideal for kitchens. We're using the uncoupling membrane for this project.

Fitting and Laying the Flooring Substrate

Step 1: Mark the Door Jambs for the New Tile

Prep the doorjambs to fit the new tile. Stack a floor tile on a piece of the substrate. Place them against the jamb and mark the height.

Step 2: Undercut the Door Jambs

Use a saw to cut the jamb about 1/16 inch above the tile. Cut doors 1/8 inch above the tile.

Step 3: Cut the Uncoupling Membrane to Length

Unroll the uncoupling membrane across the floor and cut it to length, accounting for a 1/4-inch perimeter expansion gap.

Step 4: Apply Mortar to the Subfloor

Set the membrane aside and mix latex Portland cement mortar according to the product instructions. Spread the mortar with the flat side of the trowel. Comb over it in straight lines. The membrane instructions may indicate the type of trowel to use. We used a 1/4-inch x 3/16-inch notched trowel. Place the membrane on top and use a float to press it into the mortar. Remember to leave the 1/4-inch expansion gap.

Step 5: Install the Remaining Uncoupling Membrane

Continue installing across the room, cutting the membrane to fit where needed. Mark floor registers so you can cut them later.

Step 6: Apply a Waterproofing Band to the Seams

Waterproofing the seams is a good idea in a kitchen. Mix some unmodified thinset mortar according to the product instructions, spread it across the seams and press the waterproofing band over the mortar.

Step 7: Cut for Floor Registers

Step 8: Give the Mortar Time to Cure

Laying the Tile

Follow the steps below to plan your tile layout and install the tile.

Good to Know

Different batches of tile may have slight color variations. Mix tile from all of your boxes to avoid unwanted patterns on the finished floor.

Planning the Layout and Installing the Tile

Step 1: Snap Chalk Lines

Mark the center of two opposing walls or cabinets, and snap a chalk line on the floor. Hairspray can keep the chalk from rubbing off. Follow the same procedure on the other walls or cabinets to form a cross on the floor. Check that the cross is square.

Step 2: Create a Starting Line for the Tile

Measure from the center of the room to the starting wall, then subtract the 1/4-inch expansion gap and the width of two tiles and two spacers. Mark this distance at the two ends of the starting wall. Snap a line between the marks to get a straight line near the wall and check it for square. This is your starting line.

Step 3: Plan the Perimeter Tile Widths

Do a dry layout with tiles and spacers to determine if you'll need narrow tiles near the perimeter. Your floor looks better if you shift the layout to accommodate wider tiles.

Step 4: Adjust the Starting Line as Needed

Make adjustments and re-snap your starting line if needed. Check for square.

Step 5: Position a Guide for the First Row

Position a straightedge on the starting line and hold it in place with bags of mortar or grout. You'll start laying tiles with this row.

Step 6: Mix the Mortar

Mix un-modified thinset mortar for large-format tiles following the directions. It should have peanut butter consistency.

Step 7: Spread the Mortar

Spread the mortar over a small work area, pressing it into the cavities of the membrane.

Step 8: Comb the Mortar

Spread additional mortar and comb it with the notched side of a 1/2-inch x 1/2-inch notched trowel held at a 45-degree angle. This type of trowel is critical to create the proper ridges for the tile. Don't make swirls.

Step 9: Prepare the First Tile

Back butter a tile by spreading a little bit of thinset mortar on the bottom surface. Proper back buttering is necessary for a good installation.

Step 10: Place the First Tile

Press and twist the tile into the mortar along the straightedge. The tile should flatten the ridges the trowel created in the mortar.

Step 11: Complete a Couple of Rows

Finish laying the tiles for the first couple of rows, placing 1/8-inch spacers in between the tiles and frequently checking that the tiles are even and level. Be careful to not stagger the joints more than 1/3 the length of tile. A wider stagger might cause lippage (image to the right) — a difference in height between adjacent tiles — because long, plank tiles are often crowned in the middle.

Good to Know

Remember to maintain the 1/4-inch expansion gap around the floor perimeter as you lay the tiles.

Step 12: Install Tile Along the Starting Wall

After a couple of rows are down, you can install the row against the wall where you used the straightedge.

Step 13: Continue Laying the Tile

Continue laying the floor a few rows at a time. Periodically check the tile backs to make sure there's full contact between the mortar and tiles. If not, back butter again or use a trowel with larger notches.

Step 14: Cut the End Tile to Size

At row ends you need to cut the planks. Mark and cut them with a tile cutter or wet saw.

Good to Know

To quickly prepare an end tile for cutting, you can place it on top of the final full tile in a row and mark it, accounting for the 1/4-inch expansion gap at the wall and a 1/8-inch spacer.

Step 15: Install Trim or Transitions

At doorways, install tile edge trim or transitions while the thinset is still wet.

Step 16: Clean as You Work

As you're working, wipe up excess mortar with a wet sponge.

Step 17: Finish Laying the Tile

Continue laying the tiles. For the final row, you may need to cut the tiles to the necessary width.

Step 18: Seal the Tile if Needed

After the mortar has cured according to the instructions — usually for 24 hours — you may need to apply a tile sealer. Check the instructions for your tile and follow the sealer instructions if you need to seal the tile.

Grouting the Tile Joints

Try to match the grout to the tile color for that hardwood floor appearance. Follow the product instructions to mix the grout, usually to a paste-like consistency.

Grouting and Finishing the Installation

Step 1: Apply the Grout

Press the grout into the joints with a rubber float, pulling it diagonally across the joints and removing the excess. Don't fill the expansion gaps along the wall.

Step 2: Wipe Away Excess Grout

After about 20 minutes, wipe the grout lines with a clean, wet sponge. You can remove any remaining residue with a haze remover. After grouting, don't walk on the floor for about 24 hours.

Step 3: Caulk the Expansion Gap

When the grout has dried, remove any spacers from the expansion gap around the perimeter of the floor and apply silicone sealant to the gap.

Step 4: Seal the Grout

Apply a grout sealer to the grout lines to help prevent stains.

Step 5: Reinstall the Moulding

Use a hammer, nail set and finishing nails to reinstall the moulding and replace any appliances or other items you removed.